Friday, March 13, 2009

On to the Alentejo!

Sebi and I awoke to a knock on the door from Sebi´s host father. We opened our eyes and grogily looked at the time. WOW we slept in! We said. We dressed and made our way downstairs. I still hadn´t seen any of Sebi´s family since I had arrived and greeted my hosts enthusiastically. I really like Sebi´s family a lot. We were instructed to head over to a nearby café to eat breakfast and wait for our ride to the Alentejo. This cafe by the way is one of the most well known and delicous in Lisbon. We passed through the courtyard outside the cafe dodging tables and people who were enjoying their breakfasts at their own paces, some quite lesiurly and others quite hurried. When we entered the cafe we were greeted with quite a line and ended up waiting a little longer than planned. This however gave us enough time to decide what we wanted from all the scrumptious pastries staring up at us through their glass shelves. When it was our turn we ordered quickly and were once again put up to wait. We both ordered tosted croisants with ham and cheese. These croisants are maybe a little different than you imagined. They are small and dense and covered in sugar. They are cut in have, slapped with ham and cheese and thrown into a toaster press. They come out hot and goey and when you eat them all the ingredients just come together and melt in your mouth. It is truly something divinve. We also drank some fresh squeezed orange juice and just as we were finishing our ride came. The man who was in charge of delivering us to our destination in the Alentejo was Sebastians host uncle. We entered the cafe greeting everyone as he made his way over to us. We started talking about soccer right off the bat. Sebi and his host family are supporters of the team Benfica, and me and Sebi´s uncle support Sporting. These two teams are bitter rivals and we always get into these little bouts of friendly teasing. Well, some other people in the cafe, including some people tending the counter, heard our discussion and joined in. We talked for a little while more and when we realized we had kept Sebi´s aunt and niece waiting in the car, hurridly finished up our gloating and left. We piled into the car exchanging greetings and made our way through Lisbon passing over the big red bridge that reminds me so much of the Golden Gate.
The drive wasn´t at all long, and the scenery turned very pleasant as we parted from the city. The alentejo is a region in portugal where a lot of farming is done. It is caracterized by rolling hills, cork tree groves, and ancient stone walls weaving their way about flocks of sheep and herds of cattle.
When the main highway finally turned into a dirt road I knew we were close to our destination. We made our way ever further into the expansive pastures turning on to ever smaller and smaller dirt roads until I thought we´d hit the point where the light blue, cloud speckled sky met the green of the earth. Our last turn under a big gate set us onto a road lined with tall trees, at the end of the way I could see a group of buildings. When we arrived at the end we parked and all got out. We were not met by anyone as all that inhabited the farm had gone to mass at the tiny chapel. We walked over and saw all the people packed into this tiny chapel. There was no room for us to enter so Sebi and I watched from outside a little bit and then decided to explore. The white buildings were set around a main courtyard that opened up onto the expansiveness of the pastures. It felt as if our little cluster of buildings was a life raft sent into an undulating green ocean. We went to play ping-pong in one of the old farm buildings converted into a play room. After a little while mass was over and me and Sebi were called to greet everybody. We exchanged the customary kisses on the cheeks with all the women and strong, firm handshakes with all the men. When everyone had been introduced we headed for lunch. We entered straight into great dining hall through two big old doors that opened onto long tables and an enormous fireplace in the corner. At the end of the hall sat a steaming pot big enough to cook a human child in. Everyone grabbed a bowl and formed a line behind the pot. As I got closer and closer in line to the pot the aroma started tickling my nostrils. It was a traditional Alentejano soup with chicken, rice, vegetables and other delicous things. We sat and ate and laughed until we couldn´t take any more. After all our bowls were empty and our tummies full, we retired to one of the comfy living rooms to watch some rugby and relax.
Time to go now, but tons more to come.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

wow. from pasteries to pastures to human sized pots of soup - ben you write so well and i enjoy being able to envision you there experiencing these wonderful moments. this blog made me very hungry - i think i'll go grab a bite.
love,
Dad